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Climbing in El Capitan

Considered in the past as impossible to ascend, El Capitán is now the standard for Big Wall climbing.

"El Cap" has two main faces, the southwest (to the left when looking directly at the wall) and the southeast. Between the two faces protrudes a marked prow.

While today there are numerous routes established on both sides, the most popular and historically famous route is The Nose, which follows the prow.

Information available in other language: ES


Route nameGrade
El NiñoClásica
P1: 5.6, P2: 5.8, P3: 5.13a, P4: 5.12d, P5: 5.13c, P6: 5.11a, P7: 5.11d, P8: 5.9, P9: 5.11a, P10: 5.6 A2, P11: A1, P12: 5.7 A2, P13: 5.6, P14: 5.7 A1, P15: A2, P16: A1, P17: A2, P18: A2, P19: A2, P20: A2, P21: 5.8 A2, P22: ?, P23: ?, P24: 5.9, P25: 5.10a, P26: ?
5.13c A2
Gulf StreamClásica
P1: 5.8, P2: A3, P3: A3+, P4: A3, P5: A3, P6: 5.9 A3+, P7: A3, P8: A3, P9: A3, P10: 5.10a, P11: A2, P12: A3+, P13: A4, P14: A3, P15: 5.7 A3, P16: 5.6 A4, P17: 5.4 A3
5.10a A4
KaosClásica
P1: A3, P2: A3, P3: A3, P4: 5.9 A1, P5: A3, P6: A3+, P7: A2, P8: A4, P9: A3, P10: A3+, P11: A3, P12: A2, P13: A3, P14: 5.7

Native SonClásica
P1: A3, P2: A3, P3: A3+, P4: 5.9, P5: A4+, P6: A2, P7: A3+, P8: A3+, P9: A3, P10: A4, P11: A2, P12: A3, P13: A0, P14: A4

North America WallClásica
P1: 5.11a, P2: A2, P3: A2+, P4: A4+, P5: 5.8, P6: 5.7 A2, P7: A2, P8: 5.6 A2, P9: A1, P10: 5.7 A2, P11: 5.6, P12: 5.7 A1, P13: A2, P14: A1, P15: A2, P16: A2, P17: A2, P18: A2, P19: 5.8 A2, P20: A2, P21: A3, P22: 5.7 A1, P23: A2, P24: A2, P25: 5.7 A2, P26: 5.6
5.8 A3
Pacific Ocean WallClásica
P1: A1, P2: A2/3, P3: A3, P4: A2, P5: A3, P6: A3, P7: A3, P8: A3, P9: A3, P10: A3, P11: A3, P12: A3+, P13: A3+, P14: A2, P15: A3, P16: A3/+, P17: A4, P18: A2, P19: A3, P20: 5.9, P21: A4, P22: 5.5 A3, P23: 5.8 A3, P24: A1, P25: 5.10a A1
5.9 A3
Surgeon GeneralClásica
P1: A4, P2: A4, P3: A2+, P4: ?, P5: ?, P6: A3+, P7: A3, P8: A4, P9: A3, P10: A4, P11: A2+, P12: A2, P13: A3, P14: A3+, P15: A4, P16: A3

Tangerine TripClásica
P1: A2, P2: 5.9 A2, P3: 5.6 A1, P4: A3, P5: A3, P6: A2, P7: A1, P8: 5.7 A2, P9: A0, P10: A2+, P11: A3, P12: A3, P13: A2+, P14: A2, P15: ?, P16: A2, P17: 5.7, P18: A1, P19: 5.6

The Dawn Wall
P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.13a, P3: 5.13c, P4: 5.12b, P5: 5.12d, P6: 5.13c, P7: 5.14a, P8: 5.13d, P9: 5.13c, P10: 5.14a, P11: 5.13c, P12: 5.14b, P13: 5.13b, P14: 5.14d, P15: 5.14d, P16: 5.14a, P17: 5.14a, P18: 5.13c, P19: 5.13b, P20: 5.13d, P21: 5.13d, P22: 5.10a, P23: 5.11a, P24: 5.11a, P25: 5.11d, P26: 5.11c, P27: 5.12c, P28: 5.12b, P29: 5.12b, P30: 5.13a, P31: 5.12b

The Dawn Wall - The Dyno Pitch
P1: 5.14c

The Nose
P1: 5.10d, P2: 5.11a, P3: 5.10c, P4: 5.11a, P5: 4, P6: 5.9, P7: 5.8, P8: 5.9, P9: 5.10a, P10: 5.9, P11: 5.10a, P12: 5.10a, P13: 5.9, P14: 5.10c, P15: 5.10c, P16: 5.10c, P17: 5.9, P18: 5.9, P19: A1, P20: 5.10a, P21: 5.10d, P22: 5.10c, P23: 5.8, P24: 5.11a, P25: A1, P26: 5.8, P27: 5.10d

The Prophet
P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.12b, P3: 5.11d, P4: 5.13a, P5: 5.13b, P6: 5.13b, P7: 5.12b, P8: 5.13b, P9: 5.13c, P10: 5.12b, P11: 5.13d, P12: 5.12b, P13: 5.13b, P14: 5.12b

The Salathé Wall
P1: 5.10c, P2: 5.8, P3: 5.11a, P4: 5.10b, P5: 5.11b, P6: 5.11a, P7: 5.9, P8: 5.10c, P9: 5.7, P10: 5.8, P11: 5.10b, P12: 5.11c, P13: 5.12a, P14: 5.9, P15: 5.8, P16: 5.10a, P17: 5.10c, P18: 5.10d, P19: 5.11d, P20: 5.13d, P21: 5.10a, P22: 5.7, P23: 5.10d, P24: 5.11a, P25: 5.12d, P26: 5.10c, P27: 5.11a, P28: 5.12b, P29: 5.12d, P30: 5.12a, P31: 5.13b, P32: 5.11c, P33: 5.10b

Zodiac
P1: 5.10d, P2: 5.13a, P3: 5.9, P4: 5.11b, P5: 5.12a, P6: 5.11b, P7: 5.11c, P8: 5.7, P9: 5.13b, P10: 5.13a, P11: 5.13c, P12: 5.13d, P13: 5.12b, P14: 5.12d, P15: 5.10b