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El Chorro > Frontales Bajas

La delgada línea Roja, 190m, 6cTraditional

P1: IV+ 25m , P2: 6b+ 30m , P3: V+ 35m , P4: 6c 25m , P5: V+ 25m , P6: 6a+ 50m

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Traditional climbing route opened from below on two different days, 26/12/2020 and 03/01/2021, by Rubén De Francisco and Pedro Soto.

A self-protection route, technical climbing, with some asparagus, trees, boulders and some loose gendarmes, adventure for times of comfort! To the left is the route Las Buitreras, little repeated and forgotten. Parallel to your right is the route Apocalipsis.

Nice climbing on a wall somewhat forgotten and rather stitched on the left and right by routes fully equipped from above.

The route is a classic that will take you to another era (eighties, nineties) where people climbed in El Chorro in a very different way than today, when there was more adventure on its walls, today many have crossed that thin red line and only over-equipped routes are opened for comfort and convenience, but everyone is free to open as they please!!! This route is a small tribute to the adventure of yesteryear and we have enjoyed opening it with only 6 holes in 190m, we hope you enjoy it.

Pedro Soto

Gear

  • Two sets of Friends up to 3,5, or 4 if you use Camalots.
  • One set of nut.
  • Some cords to use in rock bridges.

Overview

Pitch 1. 25m, V+

Easy climb. Look for the first tree and then a small cave with a big rock bridge as a belay station.

Belay station: Rock bridge.

Pitch 2. 30m, 6b+

It starts with a somewhat athletic overhang, then continues through a technical wall protected with a parabolt. Belay station over a big tree, set it up with some friends.

Belay station: With friends over a big tree.

Pitch 3. 35m, V+

Leaving the belay station avoiding the overhang to the left, we will find an old parabolt that can be used (further up to the left we can see a couple of rock bridges with a carabiner, we don't know if it is abandoned¿? ), after using that parabolt we leave to the right to take a crack system diagonally to the right towards some trees, at the height of the first tree a couple of meters to the right we find an old spit sewn to a small rock bridge (it seems a forgotten route, variant of entrance to the route Las Buitreras that comes from the right to the left, with which we surely share the last third of that pitch). Belay station already installed on the wall, it belongs to the previously mentioned route, this one comes out to the left by an inclined dihedral, you can see a piton in the diagonal.

Belay station: Mounted on the wall, of a previously existing route.

Pitch 4. 35m, 6c

Spectacular pitch, very technical and with three parabolts placed in the smoothest part of the wall, a must climb but safe with a lot of self-protection. 5 stars. The belay station is a ring in a niche, which must be reinforced with friends.

Belay station: Ring in a niche, must be reinforced with friends.

Pitch 5. 25m, V+

We leave the belay station to the left and take an obvious crack that is very easy to climb, up to a ledge with a tree. The belay station is a ring and a rock bridge.

Belay station: Ring and rock bridge.

Pitch 6. 50m, 6a+

Little defined pitch, we go out straight from the belay with a tendency to the right, we find a rock bridge and after this diagonal to the right with a very technical section on a slab and protected with small aliens. Then go straight out more or less by the obvious with a tendency always a little to the right looking for the end of the route Apocalipsis, at the end of the pitch very nice section through a kind of fissured dihedral, very technical but in Vº.

Descent

To descend it is recommended to walk down or take the Apocalipsis abseil line.