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Turón > Tajos de La Laja > Omar Ben Hafsún

De los sobrinos, 105m, 6a+Traditional

P1: III 40m , P2: V 20m , P3: 6a+ 30m , P4: IV+ 15m

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A traditional climbing route opened in May 2011 by Bosco Benitez and Antonio Lozano. The route was previsualized from the top with the placement of the belay stations and the 3 bolts of the third pitch (long slab section), and later opened from the bottom. Ideal for beginners in multi-pitch climbing.

Gear

  • Set of camalots up to size 3, with the medium sizes duplicated.
  • Set of nuts.

Overview

Pitch 1. 40m, III

This first pitch will lead us to a ledge where a large rock bridge is lashed with an old rope. We have installed a belay station with rings on it. This first pitch can actually be done through various routes, as it is a very easy approach pitch to the ledge where this route starts, along with other sport climbing routes.

Be careful with 70m ropes when rappelling: if your rope doesn't reach, you can downclimb the end of the pitch.

Pitch 2. 20m, V

This pitch moves slightly to the left from the ledge. It is not very comfortable to protect and is completely clean. Belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 3. 30m, 6a+

There are 3 bolts on the slab to protect the key moves of the pitch. Without them, there would be no possibility of protection. We'll set up a belay on a ledge.

Pitch 4. 15m, IV+

A short pitch, but it is not recommended to link it with the previous pitch as the rope drag would be severe.

Descent

Through the same route.