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Desplomilandia > Tajo del Cabrero

Zombi, 125m, 6a A1Traditional

P1: 6a 40m , P2: 6a A1 40m , P3: V+ 45m

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Traditional climbing route located at Tajo del Cabrero, opened in October 2018 by Federico Casimiro, Gonzalo Caballero and Luis Pérez.

Line that looks for the characteristic crack of the second pitch. Difficult to climb in free but not so much with the help of some stirrups. Atmosphere and adventure assured.

Do you want to climb this route with a certified rock climbing guide?

Luis Pérez Corral, certified rock climbing guide, offers you this possibility and many more. For more information you can access his website Escalada en Málaga. Luis is also one of the route openers.

Time

As it is an adventure terrain, it is difficult to give a stimated time. It will depend on the climbers' experience and abilities. Generally speaking we could consider a time between 3 and 4 hours.

Gear

The following gear was used for the first ascent:

  • Double ropes with 50/60m.
  • Two sets of Totems up to nº2.
  • Two Camalots of nº3.
  • One Camalot of nº4.
  • A full set of stoppers.
  • Classic alpine quickdraws.
  • Stirrups (only if you don't want to strain yourself too much.).

Overview

Pitch 1. 40m, 6a

One bolt. Equipped belay station.

Technical pitch throughout a dihedral and with some places for protection difficult to find. When things get complicated use the Camalot nº4 high. Remember that if it is not well placed you can place it by turning it over. ;-)

Move to the left when the left wall of the dihedral changes color from gray to orange. Not before, not after.

Pitch 2. 40m, 6a A1 (7º?)

One bolt. One piton. Equipped belay station.

Very beautiful. Overhang, crack and chimney perfectly recognisable from the ground.

A few simple meters leaves us at the beginning of a small overhang. Things get complicated but you can still go free, then it gets a little more complicated and finally you will have to "strain yourself" in the middle of the length if you don't want to fall. If you decide to use the stirrups, it will be a good test to begin to know the scale of difficulty in artificial (A1).

Crack section of about 5-7 very technical meters in free and with good protection. Use low-number gear.

Pitch 3. 45m, V+

Clean, without anchors.

Pay attention to the tree we meet halfway along the route. Be careful not to roll the ropes and also think about your mate when crossing it.

Descent

The descent is made on foot, by obvious terrain to the west. It takes between 20 and 30 minutes.

Warnings and prohibitions

Climbing in this area is prohibited between January and June, both months included.

Always pay attention to the quality of the rock. Adventure terrain.