Muerte por pez luna, 150m, 6b+ A0
P1: 6b+ A0/E2 35m , P2: IV+ E1 25m , P3: IV E1 50m , P4: 6a+ E1+ 25m , P5: V E1 15m
Muerte por pez luna in topo
"El Triángulo"
P1: 6b+ A0/E2 35m , P2: IV+ E1 25m , P3: IV E1 50m , P4: 6a+ E1+ 25m , P5: V E1 15m
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Climbing route by Lino Espinosa and Álvaro García in July 2021.
This is a semi-equipped route with clean pitches except for L1 and L4, which has 2 parabolts. It begins by taking advantage of an already bolted sport route and continues it following obvious cracks and veers looking for the characteristic crack that crosses the roof below and exits through its diagonal.
The line crosses existing routes for which it has not been possible to find information. It takes advantage of R2 (3 pitons) and R3 (paraboles) belonging to an unknown route.
Belay stations equipped except for R4 and R5 to be mounted.
Gear
- 12 quickdraws.
- Set of totems with repeated medium and small sizes.
- Camalots of numbers 1, 2 and 3.
- Double rope if you want to abseil.
Overview
Pitch 1. 6b+ (V+/A0) E2
It starts on a sport route and after reaching its belay station, the route continues along a crack that is difficult to protect, and which have exposed steps on the right that ends in a ledge where you will find a 2-parabolt belay station.
Pitch 2. IV+ E1
Follow a cracked dihedral to its end and continue on broken, left-trending terrain to reach the R2 of
Pitch 3. IV E1+
The route continues, finding at the end sections of more compact rock and overcoming some precarious blocks. There is an equipped belay station before the characteristic fissure under the roof.
Pitch 4. 6a+ E1+
From the beginning we traverse the crack with a great atmosphere under our feet, easily protected with friends and taking advantage of some parabolt. We exit to a ledge and instead of exiting through the obvious dihedral of
Pitch 5. V E1
We exit through a left diagonal crack with excellent rock and obvious protection. Belay station by lacing a block or on friends.
Descent
Unclimb and on foot, or make a 5m traverse to the right from R5, to a belay station with rings that in 2 rappels of 45m will leave us on the ground.
Warnings and prohibitions
This is a climbing area on private land particularly vulnerable due to the presence of livestock, which is the livelihood of the people in the area. If you are going to climb here it is vitally important that you respect these rules:
- Do not go with dogs, as they can frighten livestock. If you have no choice, it must be well tied and controlled.
- Making fire is totally forbidden.
- Avoid crowds in the car park, there are more places in the area for parking and sleeping.
- Respect the cattle, do not disturb them.
It is important to comply with these rules, as otherwise there is a risk that climbing will be banned, as has already been reported by the area guards.