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El Chorro > Frontales Medias > Mundo

Fanatik@s, 382m

P1: 6a/+ 25m , P2: 6a 42m , P3: IV+ 15m , P4: V 15m , P5: V 20m , P6: 6b 20m , P7: 6b+ 30m , P8: 6c 35m , P9: V 40m , P10: IV 20m , P11: IV+ 25m , P12: IV+ 20m , P13: III 20m , P14: IV+ 20m , P15: IV 35m

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Sport multipitch climbing route located at the Mundo sector, in the Frontales Medias of El Chorro. This is a 382-metre route splitted in 15 pitches, with a maximun difficulty level of 6c. The route was bolted from below until pitch 11, with the commitment that comes with it. Started in January 2019 by Manuel Rodríguez and ended in October 24th, 2020 by the whole group of friends who call themselves FANATIK@S, hence the name of the track. Special mention to the collaboration of Mar, Robe, Cristian, Raul and Emilio, and the great support received by all the Fanatics.

Note by Manuel Rodríguez, route opener:

Dedicated to all our friends, who meet every weekend to practice what we like best, climbing.

I hope you enjoy it as much as we have enjoyed opening it.

Time

4-5 hours.

Gear

Mandatory:

  • 70-80-meter rope (don't rappel the route).
  • Quickdraws.

Overview

Pitch 1

Continuous and nice climbing with good grips that ends in a small shelf where you will find the belay station. Bealy station: 2 hangers with rings.

Pitch 2

It starts diagonally to continue by an evident line that passes next to a tree with a small fall, and ends in a small shelf of earth. Bealy station: 2 hangers with rings.

Pitch 3

Easy and short, it leaves you on a big shelf. Bealy station: 2 hangers with rings.

Pitch 4

A very beautiful aerial traverse, it ends on a small shelf. Bealy station: 2 hangers with rings.

Pitch 5

Nice diagonal pitch that leads to a comfortable shelf. Bealy station: 2 hangers with rings.

Pitch 6

Continuous, with good grips and long steps that take you to the small shelf where it ends. Bealy station: 2 hangers with rings.

Pitch 7

This is an aerial section that is complicated by the bouldering step in the middle, and gradually gets easier until it reaches a good shelf. Try to stay within the line of bolts to avoid loose rocks. Bealy station: 2 hangers with rings.

Pitch 8

Continuous length of good edges and strips that lead you diagonally to the route Lluvia de Asteroides, but that does not get to join. This length has a separate meeting on a shelf above a large block of decomposed stone that must not be passed or touched. Bealy station: Chain with a ring.

Pitch 9

Easy and beautiful, 40 meters that run practically along the edge and end up on a shelf near the final belay station of Lluvia de Asteroides. Cords have been used on rock arches in easy sections. Bealy station: Chain with a ring.

Pitch 10

It is a diagonal climb with some hangers and cords in rock arches to ensure the crossing, and ends with a section where after walking 5 meters we will find the belay station. This is located on the opposite wall. There is a milestone under it that allows you to see it from afar.

Pitch 11

It starts by looking for a line of hangers and cords that leave you under the crest. Here you will climb a small dihedral through which you will be able to access the beginning of it, and where you will find the belay station. Bealy station: Two hangers without rings.

Pitch 12

It runs along the ridge, spectacular. Finishing on a comfortable shelf. Belay station: Two hangers with one ring.

Pitch 13

Easy to climb. It is advisable not to lose the line of hangers. The pitch crosses over a rock channel and leads to a large ledge. There are some cords in rock arches that more than to secure, serve to guide you and mark the way. Bealy station: Two hangers without ring.

Pitch 14

Easy, with a small difficult step at the end that leads to a large shelf. Bealy station: Two hangers without ring.

Pitch 15

Easy and with incredible views. The final belay station is on a stone block with 2 hangers linked by a colored cord. There are some cords on rock arches that only serve to mark the line to the final belay station. Bealy station: Two hangers without ring linked by a colored cord.

Descent

In the final belay station you can get unsettled. From here, continue the climb up the ridge to a point where you can leave it on the left by a piece of land that is marked with landmarks and continues to climb up to a canal. That canal can be lowered and you can reach the Placas del Olimpo area, although it is not recommended. The best thing is to follow some milestones that lead to another new ridge where you continue to climb. Continue this way almost until the end, where you will find an evident descent to the left, a descent between stones that leads to the slope that goes down to the path of El Huma, through which we can descend the Escalera Árabe.

Warnings and prohibitions

  • It is not recommended to rappel the route to avoid decomposed areas.
  • Use 70-80 meter rope.
  • The route can be abandoned on the pitch 10, through Lluvia de Asteroides.
  • From the 10th pitch, belay station are not rappelable and are formed by 2 or 3 hangers.
  • You will find some pieces of cords passed that are only there to mark the way and not to assure you.
  • Rope over a rock bridge has also been used to secure some easy sections.
  • Very important not to get out of line to avoid loose rocks.
  • Please do not leave trash in bely stations or on the route.