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El Chorro > Primer cañón > Africa

Bi wote, Kaniooo!!!, 165m, 7a A0Traditional

P1: V+ A0 30m , P2: 6c+ 35m , P3: 7a 35m , P4: 6b+ 30m , P5: 6c 35m

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Traditional climbing route located in the África wall (El Chorro), opened in November 2010 by Alex Espejo Saavedra and Luis Pérez Corral, with the collaboration of "El Chino".

The name comes from the waterfall that falls from the broken tube that crosses the walls of the canyon. Frequently the waterfall forms a rainbow very close to the initial belay station, which is a few meters above the water level.

It's an environment that impresses, a lot of verticality, some sections have some exposure, the difficulty grade is tight, and there is little fixed anchors on the wall. In 2010 a series of new openings began after a time when there were hardly any new relevant activities in El Chorro.

In the opinion of Luis, one of his openers, this route together with "El Salto de los Vanuatu" constitute the two best openings carried out in El Chorro in the last decade. These two routes encompass many of the characteristics for which El Chorro was once known and which may never be experienced again. No known repetition.

Do you want to climb this route with a certified rock climbing guide?

Luis Pérez Corral, certified rock climbing guide, offers you this possibility and many more. For more information you can access his website Escalada en Málaga. Luis is also one of the route openers.

Time

Between 4 and 6 hours.

Gear

  • Double ropes of 60m.
  • Set of stoppers.
  • Set of microfriends.
  • Set of friends up to nº2 (it is recommended to repeat middle numbers and to triplicate number 1)
  • Helmet.
  • Sheave to cross the zip line that gives access to the route.

Overview

Access.

It is done by the zip line, although sometimes it is difficult to reach it because the water level is high. Use the zip line anchors as the first belay station.

Pitch 1. 30m, V+ A0

Two pitons near the first belay station. Equipped belay station.

Protect the traverse to prevent your partner from falling into the water.

Pitch 2. 35m, 6c

Two bolts (possibly in poor condition and difficult to change) and an arch. Equipped belay station.

It's something exposed at the final section of the pitch, take your time and look for something to protect.

Pitch 3. 35m, 6c+

One bolt at the exit and two arches along the route. Equipped belay station.

Tendency to the right looking for a hidden dihedral, at the end look for the slab on the left.

Pitch 4. 30m, 6b+

Equipped belay station.

Exit on the right side of the belay station. Clean crack.

Pitch 5. 35m, 6b+

Ending belay station in a tree.

Descent

Once we have reached the last belay station, we continue climbing towards the grass field that is to the south, under the main summit. At this point we head west, and begin to descend towards Arroyo Granados for the most comfortable place we see. It is not supposed to be so complicated to cross by the stream, but the abundance of vegetation could make the passage quite difficult.

You can also descend using the abseiling line of the Africa sector, to the right of the last belay station of the route, although this option is not recommended because the company that manages El Caminito del Rey at present could manifest disadvantages.

In case of withdrawal, it is possible to rappel by the own route, although it is not very recommendable.

Warnings and prohibitions

Under no circumstances should you travel through areas located on the footbridge of Caminito del Rey, it is totally forbidden.

The descent down the north face of Cerro Cristo towards the Caminito del Rey footbridge is totally forbidden.